Tucked between Burgundy and Switzerland, the Jura ages Savagnin under a veil of yeast for six years and three months to make vin jaune — nutty, saline, unlike anything else in France. Its reds, Poulsard and Trousseau, are pale and haunting. Higher still, Savoie's Jacquère, Altesse and Mondeuse grow on alpine scree, taut and stony, drunk young and cold.
Appellations to know
For each one: the bottle that defines it, and the bottle that over-delivers. Indicative retail prices, not an offer to sell.
Château-Chalon
Vin jaune only; the pinnacle of oxidative winemaking
Best wine
€110 / 62cl
Domaine Macle Château-Chalon
Six years and three months under voile; curry leaf, walnut, endless finish.
Best value
€60 / 62cl
Domaine Berthet-Bondet Château-Chalon
Vin jaune's most accessible great bottle.
Arbois
The Jura's largest appellation, all styles, wildly expressive
Best wine
€400
Domaine Overnoy-Houillon Arbois Poulsard
The natural-wine grail; pale, savoury and impossible to buy.
Best value
€26
Domaine de la Tournelle Arbois Trousseau
Wild, red-fruited Jura red at a realistic price.
Roussette de Savoie
Altesse: quince, hazelnut, alpine tension
Best wine
€28
Domaine Dupasquier Marestel
Altesse aged five years; quince, hazelnut and alpine tension.
Best value
€14
Domaine Jean Perrier Altesse
Fresh, mountain-clean white for the price of a pint.
Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron
Roussanne at altitude, rich but bright
Best wine
€40
Gilles Berlioz Les Filles
Biodynamic Roussanne at altitude; rich but bright.
Best value
€18
Domaine André et Michel Quenard Chignin-Bergeron
The reference bottling and a perennial bargain.
The most expensive areas
Typical retail
Where land, scarcity and reputation push prices highest in Jura & Savoie. Indicative bottle prices for benchmark producers, not an offer to sell.
- 01
Château-Chalon
€60–250 / 62cl
Vin jaune aged six years and three months under voile.
- 02
Arbois (Overnoy, Ganevat)
€100–600
Cult natural producers with waiting lists, not price lists.
- 03
Vin de Paille
€50–120 / half
Straw-dried grapes; a few hundred bottles per estate.
- 04
Mondeuse from Arbin
€25–60
Savoie's most sought-after red terroir.
What's produced
At the table
- Comté (24-month)
- Chicken with morels and vin jaune
- Fondue
- Walnut tart